From Humble Beginnings to Upscale Cuisine: Fong on Tofu in Chinatown

Fresh Tofu, Family Legacy, and the Vibrancy of Chinatown: A Visit to Fong On Tofu

Every day as dawn breaks in Manhattan’s Chinatown, a remarkable transformation begins. In a little shop nestled at 81 Division Street, billions of soybeans are meticulously ground, cooked, and deftly turned into freshly pressed tofu. This isn’t just any tofu; it’s the flavorful, warm delight that has captured the hearts—and stomachs—of many in the bustling community and beyond. The man behind this beloved establishment, Paul Eng, proudly states, “There’s nothing like fresh tofu.”

Fong On Tofu, renowned as the oldest family-run tofu shop in Chinatown, is a vibrant testament to a rich legacy that began way back in 1933. The shop is named in honor of Eng’s grandfather, which translates to “grand peace.” It’s a name that symbolizes not only the history behind the business but also the tranquility and warmth that fresh tofu can bring to a meal.

The life path of Paul Eng is a fascinating narrative that mirrors the journey of many drawn back to their roots. Initially resistant to following in the family business, Eng ventured into architecture, spent time playing guitar in a band, and even moved to Russia in pursuit of photography. However, as life unfolded and he started a family of his own, the bonds of family and the practical need to provide led him back to Fong On Tofu. By the time he returned, the shop had been closed by his retired brothers, but rather than despair, Eng chose to innovate, modernizing the production process while breathing new life into recipes that have stood the test of time.

The resilience of Eng during the pandemic, a period that devastated many small businesses, proved remarkable. He not only survived but thrived by adapting to the changing landscape. Today, Fong On Tofu is not just a local favorite; it has garnered the attention of high-end establishments as well. The shop supplies wholesale tofu to prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants like 11 Madison, showcasing its journey from a humble tofu shop to a staple in upscale dining.

Eng’s journey is about more than just tofu; it reflects the broader narrative of Chinatown and the importance of small businesses in preserving cultural heritage. He passionately advocates for the area, stating, “Chinatown should be just as valuable as any other neighborhood or cuisine. It’s essential for our survival.” In an era where gentrification threatens the unique character of neighborhoods like Chinatown, the success of storied businesses like Fong On Tofu play a critical role in maintaining the cultural fabric of the community.

Walking into Fong On Tofu, the air is infused with the warmth of freshly prepared tofu, ready to be topped with an assortment of sweet or savory options. Visitors can’t help but be drawn in by the inviting atmosphere, where the dedication to quality and tradition is as palpable as the tantalizing aroma. This isn’t just a place to buy tofu; it’s an experience that connects you to the history and heartbeat of Chinatown itself.

The story of Fong On Tofu is about familial love, cultural pride, and dedication to craft. It’s a reminder that behind every thriving business lies a narrative shaped by resilience and innovation. As Paul Eng continues to steer his family’s legacy into the future, he embodies the spirit of a community that values its roots while looking ahead with hope. The shop’s legacy isn’t just about the golden blocks of tofu that emerge every day; it’s about the very soul of Chinatown, a place that nourishes not just the body, but also the heart.

In a world that increasingly prioritizes corporate chains over family-run businesses, Fong On Tofu stands as a beacon of what it means to truly connect with one’s culture and community. With the next 100 years on the horizon, the future looks bright for Eng and his endearing tofu shop, continuing to serve as a vital part of Chinatown’s rich tapestry. If you find yourself in Manhattan, be sure to stop by Fong On Tofu and indulge in what many consider the best tofu in the city, while also supporting a cherished slice of gastronomic history.